Guided Climb of Ham and Eggs, The Moose's Tooth
Rating: V, 5.9, AI 4
In Ruth's Gorge, Alaska, The Ham and Eggs couloir, which splits the giant granite peak known as the Moose's Tooth, was first climbed by Jon Krakauer, Thomas Davies, and Nate Zinsser in July 1975. This ultra Alaskan classic Couloir (V, 5.9, AI4) offers moderate and fun climbing to the summit of one of the most sought-after peaks in the Alaska Range – The Moose's Tooth.
It took over 20 years for the route to see another ascent. Now, largely due to access, it’s a highly sought after alpine classic! Eighteen pitches of snow, rock and ice covers 2800 feet of climbing, reaching the summit of the Moose's Tooth. A true Alaskan Alpine climbing experience and one of the best views of the range; Denali and Hunter Above, Huntington nearly straight across, and the Great Ruth Gorge below.
The trip begins in Anchorage, Alaska where we pack and check our gear for our transit to Talkeetna – a historic and funky townlet that comes alive with climbers and tourists every summer. From Talkeetna we fly via ski equipped airplanes on an awe inspiring flight into the Ruth Gorge. Flying into the Ruth Gorge, snow, ice, and granite loom in every direction. We will land in what is known as the Root Canal, a bold landing pioneered by Paul Roderick in a majestic spot at the base of our climb. Here, a short walk from our route, we will set our base camp and prepare for our climb.
Climbing The Moose's Tooth via Ham and Eggs is just fantastic. Spectacularly this route climbs rock up to 5.8 and, short pitches of vertical alpine ice benched by 40-60 degree snow. The final ridge to the summit will keep your attention as the views expand.
The expected duration of this trip is seven days, Anchorage to Anchorage! Due to the technical nature of the route, the max ratio is 2:1 for climbers/guides.
Day 1: Arrive in Anchorage and drive to Talkeetna. Your guide will pick you up at the airport in a rental vehicle. If necessary, we could stop by either REI or AMH for last-minute gear purchases and supplies. Hotel in Talkeetna.
Day 2: Pack and fly into the Ruth Gorge in the afternoon. You will check in with the NPS in the morning. We'll hope to fly into the range in the early afternoon, but weather or other factors can delay this part of the itinerary. Set up camp or stay in a hotel :)
Day 3: Gear preparation for our climb. We may choose to recon the route on this day if we have successfully flown in the day before by climbing the route first 3 – 4 pitches, then descending back to camp. Camp out.
Day 4: Climb Ham and Eggs and descend back to camp.
Round trip route times can be anywhere from 13 – 22 hours. Camp out.
Day 5: Weather day. Itinerary flexibility for inclement weather or other delays. If we have completed the route, we can fly out on this day or attempt another climb in the Ruth Gorge. Camp out or stay in a hotel.
Day 6: Weather day. Itinerary flexibility for inclement weather or other delays. We may fly out back to Talkeetna on this day. Camp out or stay in a hotel.
Day 7: Fly off the glacier and return to Anchorage for a midnight flight home.
Additional Cost: If you choose to climb other objectives after Ham & Eggs, that will require a flight bump to locations such as Main Ruth Glacier. Extra charges will be added.
- Guiding and trip leadership with an AMGA Certified Guides
- Round-trip transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna
- One night of lodging in Talkeetna
- Group climbing and technical equipment (ropes, etc.)
- Group camping and cooking equipment (tents, stoves, etc.)
- All mountain food (breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the backcountry)
- Transportation to Anchorage, AK
- Hotel cost outside of the itinerary
- Guide gratuity
- Personal equipment
- Trip Insurance (in the case of cancellation)
- Costs associated with weather delays or other variables beyond the control of Wasatch Mountain Guides
This trip is by private request, April through May of each year.
- Technical Ice Tools
- 30-35 L Backpack
- Double Boots
- 3 Pair Socks
- Long Johns
- Softshell Pants
- Hardshell Pants
- Down Puffy Pants
- 4 Pair Underwear
- 2 Synthetic T-shirts
- 2 Synthetic LS shirts
- Softshell Jacket
- Gore-Tex Jacket
- Light Puffy Jacket
- Big Puffy Jacket
- Thin, Medium, and Thick Gloves
- Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip balm, sun hat
- Sleeping bag, sleeping pad
- Cup, Bowl, Spoon
- Glacier Entertainment (iPod, book, Kindle)